Experience the Structural Beauty of Dams! Did You Know There Are “Edible” Dams in Japan?
Have you heard of a dish called "dam curry"? As the name suggests, it's a curry inspired by dams. Among dam enthusiasts, dam curry has become a popular way to enjoy their love of dams. This time, we asked Mr. Miyajima, a dam enthusiast who has visited around 700 dams mainly in the Kanto region and a member of the Japan Dam Curry Association, about the appeal and enjoyment of dam curry.
What Is Dam Curry?
The history of dam curry dates back to the 1960s (Showa 40s). The first official appearance of dam curry in Japan is said to be the “Arch Curry,” served at the Ogisawa Rest House, located at Ogisawa Station, the gateway to the Tateyama Kurobe Alpine Route on the Nagano Prefecture side.
The dam curry, which gained instant buzz through word of mouth, is a dish packed with impact and volume. It uses rice to resemble a dam, with the curry roux representing the dam reservoir.
Let us share a bit about the background behind the creation of Kurobe Dam Curry. In May of 1957 (Showa 32), as the construction of the Omachi Tunnel (now known as the Kanden Tunnel) leading to the Kurobe Dam reached its critical phase, the construction site encountered a major fracture zone and was struck by a massive inflow of water. Despite 40 tons of water per minute gushing out at a bone-chilling temperature of 4°C (39°F), the construction work continued around the clock, without rest. Amid this harsh environment, what the workers looked forward to most was curry rice, which at the time was still a rare treat. The piping hot curry rice warmed the workers' chilled bodies and boosted their morale. The curry rice served at the Kurobe Dam construction site nourished both the workers' bodies and spirits. After the dam's completion, the curry that had supported the workers began to be served as "Arch Curry" at the Omachi Clubhouse in Hinatayama Highlands. In the early 1960s, it was also introduced at the Ogisawa Station Grand Dining Hall, which is now the Ogisawa Rest House.
The Start of the Dam Curry Boom
While there were a few restaurants across the country serving dam curry, it is said that the genre gained recognition in April 2007 (Heisei 19). The dam curry, introduced as a secret menu item by the Tokyo restaurant “Sansyu-ya,” was featured in the Nikkei Ryutsu Shimbun (newspaper), quickly bringing it into the public eye.
The dam curry served here is somewhat different from the ones available across Japan today. Unlike those that often consider factors such as color, flavor and balance, this curry does not take inspiration from a specific dam. Instead, it aims to express the very concept of "dam structure." It completely disregards the balance typically associated with food, focusing solely on the reproduction of a dam, making it an ultimate, niche version of dam curry. Why not start by learning about dam structures here before heading out to try dam curry from various places across Japan?
Let us explain the four types of dam curry offered at Sansyu-ya while comparing them to photos of actual dams.
Earth Dam Curry
The first type we will introduce is the curry that represents an earth dam, also known as an earth-fill dam. An earth dam is one constructed by piling up soil and is a type that is not commonly recognized as a dam by the general public. Its structure is simple, consisting of a trapezoidal mound of earth designed to hold water, and it is often referred to as a “tameike” (reservoir) in the local area.
The first earth dam in Japan is said to be the Sayama-ike Dam in Osaka Prefecture, which was established in 616 AD and is still in operation today. Initially built to secure irrigation water, it now plays a crucial role in flood prevention. While there are approximately 2,750 dams in Japan, it is estimated that about 45% of them are earth dams. Even though they may not be widely recognized, nearly one in two dams is an earth dam. This is how it’s represented through curry.
The rice is stacked in a trapezoidal shape to faithfully recreate the earth dam. The pickled vegetables (called fukujin-zuke) represent the spillway, which is used to release water when the dam is at full capacity.
Gravity Dam Curry
The most common type of dam that comes to mind when one thinks of a dam is probably the concrete gravity dam. It is said that about 40% of the dams in Japan are of this structure. This type of dam is built with concrete arranged in a triangular shape, relying on its own weight to hold back the water. Gravity dams are typically constructed in areas with a relatively solid foundation.
Release facilities come in various forms, with some having release gates across the entire dam face, while others may not have gates at all. The Miyagase Dam in Kanagawa Prefecture regularly conducts tourism releases, which have become a popular event.
This is a representation of the gravity dam created with curry.
It accurately replicates the structure of a gravity dam, supporting the pressure of the curry with the weight of the dam. The rice is shaped like a triangle when viewed from the side. The use of fukujin-zuke (a type of pickled vegetable) represents the release, which is a key feature. The drawback is that, due to the use of a large amount of rice, the balance between the curry and the rice becomes slightly uneven.
Arch-shaped Dam Curry
An arch-shaped dam features an impressive design with a beautifully curved structure. Many famous dams that you may have seen in videos or photos, such as the Kurobe Dam, Kawaji Dam and Kawamata Dam, are arch dams. The graceful curves of the concrete are impressive, making it a standout among dams, and there are likely many fans of arch dams. In reality, there are only 52 of these dams in Japan, which is about 2% of the dams in the country.
This is a representation of the dam created with curry.
It features a structure that distributes the pressure of the curry across both sides of the rice and the bottom plate. Compared to the gravity dam curry, the “dam” is thinner and has an arch shape, resulting in a smaller amount of rice than in the gravity dam curry. In addition to its beautiful appearance, this curry is popular for its excellent balance between rice and curry.
Rice-fill Curry
Dams are often thought to be made of concrete, but many are constructed from materials other than concrete. One such type is the rock-fill dam. It is primarily made of rock and clay and features a clay layer that is difficult for water to pass through, placed in the center and covered by rock. The central clay layer is called the core, and rock-fill dams can be broadly classified into three types: center core rock-fill dams, which have the core located in the center of the dam; inclined core rock-fill dams, which have the core arranged diagonally; and surface cutoff rock-fill dams, which lack a core and use asphalt or concrete on the reservoir side to create a waterproof barrier.
This is a representation created as a “rice-fill curry” instead of a rock-fill.
The rice (core) that holds back the curry serves as the core, while the rice (rock) around it absorbs the pressure of the curry. When eating, you can imagine the position of the core and think about whether you are having center core rice-fill curry, inclined core rice-fill curry, or surface cutoff rice-fill curry, making the meal even more enjoyable.
Local Dam Curry Births Across Regions
The dam curry, popularized by Sansyu-ya, has gained widespread recognition. Since then, dam curry has appeared in restaurants near various dams. Some places have even adopted dam curry as a local specialty as part of regional development efforts. In June 2009 (Heisei 21), the Youth Division of the Minakami Onsen Ryokan Cooperative in Minakami Town, Gunma Prefecture, began selling “Minakami Dam Curry.” Minakami Town is known as a dam area that attracts dam enthusiasts, with several different types of dams scattered throughout. In Minakami Town, three representative types of dam curry were devised.
The gravity dam curry is modeled after the Fujiwara Dam, which is crucial for flood control on the Tone River.
The rock-fill dam curry, which may not initially appear to be a dam, is modeled after the Naramata Dam, known for its beautiful white embankment.
The arch-shaped dam curry is inspired by the Yagisawa Dam, which is said to be the most beautiful in the town.
The Minakami Dam Curry is offered at eight restaurants in the town, and at that time, it was served in the same dish and shape at every establishment. This is the Minakami Dam Curry.
In the following month of July 2009 (Heisei 21), the “Arch Curry” from the Kurobe Dam, which can be considered the original, started being sold as a local curry throughout the area. Following this, the dam curry boom took off, with the number of varieties increasing consistently to nine in 2010 and eleven in 2011. By 2018, the number had grown to 150 varieties nationwide, establishing itself as a genre of curry.
What’s the Definition of Dam Curry?
There is no definitive definition of dam curry. However, it can be classified into three categories.
1. Curry primarily inspired by a dam
The rice is shaped like a dam and has the function of “holding back” like a dam. While the presentation as curry is abandoned, it allows one to appreciate the aesthetic beauty of the dam. The versions served at Sansyu-ya fall into this category.
2. Curry primarily inspired by curry
The rice is shaped like a dam but does not have the function of “holding back” like a dam. It is often garnished with side ingredients on the downstream side, allowing one to enjoy the aesthetic beauty of the curry. The Kurobe Dam Curry falls into this category.
3. Ordinary curry served at restaurants near dams
This refers to the curry offered at restaurants adjacent to dams. While it does not take the shape of a dam and is completely ordinary curry, it is named after the dam in relation to the local area.
The difference between 1 and 2 may not be immediately obvious, but the key point lies in whether the structure of the dam is accurately replicated.
Where Can I Find Dam Curry?
Dam curry is primarily offered at restaurants and rest houses near dams. In areas where the local community provides dam curry, multiple restaurants in the region serve it. Tourist information centers may have pamphlets available, so it's worth checking them out.
Most offerings are available during lunch hours. The price range is generally around 900 to 1,500 yen. Since some dam curries require more effort in their preparation (presentation), some places limit the number of servings available.
Additionally, it's important to note that dam curry is a menu item that can change frequently. Even if you find dam curry by searching online, it is often the case that it has already been discontinued. If you really want to try it, be sure to check whether the dam curry is still being offered, if a reservation is necessary, or if there is a limited quantity available before you visit.
How to Enjoy Dam Curry
How should you enjoy dam curry? When the dam curry is served to you, first take a moment to admire its presentation. If the dam curry is named after a local dam, it should reflect some aspect of the dam or the region's specialties. Some dam curries even come with features like water releases. Be sure to check for such gimmicks as well. After thoroughly enjoying the visual experience, dig in and savor the taste.
Now, let us introduce the dam curries carefully selected by Mr. Miyajima, a dam enthusiast.
Tsuruta Dam Curry (Satsuma Town, Kagoshima Prefecture)
The Tsuruta Dam is a concrete gravity dam boasting the largest embankment in Kyushu, with a length of 450 meters and a height of 117.5 meters.
In 2018, following the completion of the dam redevelopment project, the Commerce, Industry and Tourism Section of the Satsuma PR Division took the initiative to create something to promote the dam, leading to the launch of the dam curry project. First, they made a rice mold to replicate the dam. Initially, a wooden frame was made, and from that, a plastic mold was created, but issues arose, such as the rice not coming out of the mold properly and the shape not being stable. After making improvements one by one, a stainless steel mold was developed. However, during the tasting phase, feedback included comments like “there’s too much rice to finish.” The mold size was adjusted again and redesigned, and improvements were made, such as splitting the mold to make it easier to remove the rice, resulting in the final version of the mold.
Currently, the Tsuruta Dam Curry, made with this mold, is available at four restaurants in the town. While the mold is consistent, each restaurant adds its own twist to the dish through variations in the sauce, presentation and ingredients. It can be a fun experience to compare the unique Tsuruta Dam Curries from each establishment.
Kurobe Dam Curry (Omachi City, Nagano Prefecture)
The original dam curry, Kurobe Dam Curry, is now loved as a local specialty that can be enjoyed throughout the entire region.
In 2009, 15 restaurants in Omachi City, where the Kurobe Dam is located, began offering the modern version of Kurobe Dam Curry. To be called Kurobe Dam Curry, the following rules were established.
Rules of Kurobe Dam Curry
- Rule One
- The rice must be shaped like the dam's embankment.
- Rule Two
- The curry sauce must be poured outside the embankment (on the outer arc).
- Rule Three
- A topping resembling the Garube (the excursion boat of Kurobe Dam) must be placed on top of the curry sauce.
- Rule Four
- The price must be 700 yen or more (to provide quality curry).
- Rule Five
- Water must be served (to allow the customer to enjoy the water from Omachi, sourced at the foot of the Northern Alps).
Based on the above conditions, each restaurant offers its own uniquely crafted Kurobe Dam Curry. This dam curry continues to thrive, and as of September 2023, 18 establishments are serving Kurobe Dam Curry.
Fujiigawa Dam Curry (Shirosato Town, Ibaraki Prefecture)
Next, we introduce the Fujiigawa Dam Curry from Shirosato Town, Ibaraki Prefecture. This dam curry was created as part of a collaborative project involving students from Ibaraki Prefectural Mito Sakuranomaki High School Johoku Campus, students from Tokiwa University, and the Shirosato Town Community Development Cooperation Team, aimed at promoting Shirosato Town, known as the “least known town in Japan” in the “least attractive prefecture.” The project’s funding was raised through crowdfunding by soliciting support from backers. The curry is currently served at the restaurant in the Shirosato Town Health Promotion Facility – Hororu-no-Yu (limited to 5 servings per day).
This colorful curry, topped with a variety of ingredients, is fun to look at, but each ingredient also carries a special meaning.
- Curry sauce = Reservoir
- Seasoned egg = Hororu-no-Yu (a hot spring)
- Red bell pepper = Gatehouse of the auxiliary dam
- Sausage = Valve
- Potato = Fureai-no-Sato (a local campsite)
- Carrot = Tent at Fureai-no-Sato
- Pumpkin = Autumn leaves
- Maitake & shiitake mushrooms = Moss on the main dam
- Broccoli & bell pepper = Forests of Shirosato Town
The ingredients used are, of course, mainly local specialties. The rice for the dam structure is Koshihikari from Shirosato Town, known as "Kokekko Rice." The pork floating in the reservoir is "Shirosato King Pork," a rare breed that has undergone selective breeding over 10 generations in 20 years. This pork is characterized by its fine texture, luster, and firm, springy meat, and it has been certified by Ibaraki Umaimon-dokoro (a promotional initiative highlighting local specialties in Ibaraki). The shiitake and maitake mushrooms, representing the moss-covered dam, are grown at the Nanakai Mushroom Center in Shirosato Town. These mushrooms are carefully cultivated indoors, completely pesticide-free.
And this curry also has a "water release" feature. Before eating, be sure to pull out the valve (sausage) stuck in the dam structure and enjoy the fun of releasing the "water." This heartwarming dam curry, with its delightful story, is a dish you definitely want to try when you visit the area.
Ozuchi Dam Curry (Kōka City, Shiga Prefecture)
The Ozuchi Dam is in Kōka City, Shiga Prefecture. It's a rock-fill dam constructed to reduce flood damage in the middle and upper reaches of the Yasu River and to secure water for river maintenance, among other purposes. Surrounding facilities include a dam park, an observation square and a multipurpose plaza. The prefectural road that includes the top of the dam (crest) is part of a scenic route that leads to the Suzuka Skyline, making it an enjoyable spot to visit for sightseeing as well.
The most notable feature of Ozuchi Dam is its semicircular spillway. Due to topographical constraints, a conventional spillway could not be installed, so two spillways with a diameter of about 30 meters each were constructed to regulate the water level. The spillway's height is at an elevation of 292 meters. When the water level exceeds 292 meters, water flows out from the spillway. Watching the water cascade vigorously from the semicircular spillway creates an illusion that it might pull you in.
The Ozuchi Dam Curry, which replicates this distinctive dam, is served at the Okawara Onsen Kamoshika Villa Restaurant Gensokyo.
The curry sauce, featuring local wild boar and shigureni (a type of simmered meat or seafood), is delicious, simmered in coconut milk with plenty of spices. A halved boiled egg and fried eggplant are used to represent the circular spillway.
Upstream from the Ozuchi Dam is the Yasugawa Dam, which is a concrete gravity dam. It is currently used for agricultural water supply.
At the Okawara Onsen Kamoshika Villa Restaurant Gensokyo, Yasugawa Dam Curry is also served.
This dam curry, generously served with fried deer meat and plenty of wakasagi, is also very hearty. You’d definitely want to try both!
Wrap-up
Dive into the deep world of dam-themed curry!
Dam curry can be found throughout Japan, and enjoying some during your dam visits will double the fun. When you're on a dam tour, be sure to check if there are any nearby restaurants that serve dam curry. Why not set out to discover new dam curries?