Experience Ryotei Culture from the Edo Period in Tokyo’s Historic Downtown: A Picturesque Tour of Mukojima with Geisha

Located in the central-western part of Sumida Ward, Mukojima lies along the western banks of the Sumida River.
The area was named "Mukojima" because it appeared like an island across the river when viewed from Asakusa, a bustling entertainment district during the Edo period (1603–1868).

The tradition of planting cherry blossoms along the banks of the Sumida River began with the fourth Tokugawa shogun, Ietsuna, who planted trees around the Kiyomizu-dera Temple area.
Later, in 1717, the eighth shogun, Yoshimune, ordered the planting of more cherry trees to create a recreational area for the common people.
Over the years, locals continued to plant cherry trees, turning the area into one of Edo's most famous spots for cherry blossoms. This location also gained fame as a fashionable and sophisticated gathering place for poets and artists.
Its proximity to Asakusa Temple and the surrounding farmlands made Mukojima a scenic area.
It was also bustling with worshippers visiting shrines like the Mimeguri Inari Shrine (now Mimeguri Shrine) and Akiba Daigongen no Yashiro Shrine (now Akiba Shrine).

In 1804, an antique dealer named Sahara Kikuu collected plum trees, pampas grass, and other traditional Japanese plants to create the Mukojima-Hyakkaen Gardens on the former estate of the Takaga family.
Initially featuring 360 plum trees, it earned the nickname “Shin Ume-yashiki” in contrast to the famous plum garden “Seikoan” (also known as "Kameido Ume-yashiki") in Kameido, a villa owned by a kimono merchant named Hikoemon Iseya, which was already renowned as a plum-viewing spot with 300 plum trees.
Over time, the garden added plants mentioned in classic Japanese literature, allowing visitors to enjoy seasonal blooms year-round. Today, it is a designated National Historic Site and Place of Scenic Beauty.

During the mid-Edo period (1681–1780), with the influence of Matsuo Basho, cultural gatherings for haikai poetry and renga began to be held at chaya (teahouses). It was during this period that the profession of geisha emerged—women who entertained guests with performances of dance and traditional music, bringing elegance and artistry to banquets.
Mukojima thrived as a picturesque area with ryotei (traditional Japanese restaurants) since the Edo period. By the Meiji era (1868–1912), a geisha association office known as a kenban was established, which marked the origin of Mukojima as a hanamachi.
There are various theories about the origins of the kenban. One account credits Sakata Kiku, the proprietress of the restaurant Uehan near Suijin Shrine, with founding it in 1875.
At the time of its founding, Mukojima’s geisha were referred to as “Hazakura Geisha.” Some of the most iconic geisha from Mukojima were even featured in ukiyo-e woodblock prints, such as “Kouka of Wakasaya,” and became symbols of the district.

Mukojima reached its peak as a hanamachi in 1940, boasting 215 ryotei, 408 okiya (geisha houses), and approximately 1,300 geisha. It became a beloved location for artists and writers, often appearing in ukiyo-e prints, novels, and theatrical productions.
However, the area suffered significant damage during World War II, particularly in the Tokyo air raids. By 1986, the various kenban merged into a single organization called the Mukojima Sumitei Union.

In Mukojima’s hanamachi district, three essential elements come together to create the ultimate experience of Japanese hospitality. These are the ryotei, which specialize in traditional Japanese cuisine, particularly kaiseki meals, and are authorized to host banquets with geisha entertainment; the okiya, where geisha and their apprentices, known as hangyoku, live and receive comprehensive training in traditional etiquette and arts under the guidance of their okami (female proprietors); and the kenban, which manages communication and coordination between ryotei and okiya, as well as the scheduling of geisha performances.
Currently, Mukojima is home to 11 ryotei, including establishments such as Irifune, Kiyoshi, Sakura Chaya, Sumi Ta, Chiyo, Chiyoda, Tsukibue, Dojoji, Namimura, Futaba, and Momo Fuku.
In addition, there are 45 okiya, collectively supporting 80 geisha. These okiya play a crucial role in not only sending geisha to ryotei but also preserving and passing on traditional culture and skills to the next generation of hangyoku apprentices.
Among the six remaining hanamachi in Tokyo—Shimbashi (Ginza), Akasaka, Yoshicho (Nihonbashi Ningyocho), Kagurazaka, Asakusa, and Mukojima—Mukojima is particularly renowned for having the largest number of geisha.

The sight of kimono-clad geisha illuminated by the moonlight, accompanied by the flowing melodies of shamisen and the haunting beauty of long songs, creates an atmosphere unique to Mukojima. Despite the passage of time, changes in people, and transformations in the landscape, Mukojima continues to exude a distinct charm, offering a serene and timeless escape from the ordinary.

Hidden in the heart of Mukojima’s hanamachi district, Ryotei Futaba offers an unparalleled experience of Edo-era elegance, with kaiseki cuisine showcasing seasonal ingredients and mesmerizing performances of songs and dances by geisha.
This ryotei is the epitome of Japanese hospitality, where every dish is crafted with care by skilled chefs.

The kenban (geisha association office) in Mukojima is not only a hub for coordinating geisha appointments but also serves as a practice space.
Geisha training emphasizes not just etiquette through traditional music but also mastery of skills like rhythm, timing, emotion, and refined grace, all of which are expressed through their performances.
Daily practice is essential for perfecting these traditional arts, which include Joruri ballads, shamisen-accompanied storytelling, and other instrumental performances.
This exclusive tour offers a rare glimpse into geisha training sessions, typically off-limits to the public, as well as a hands-on drumming experience, including small, high-pitched shime-daiko drums.
The tour begins with a lecture on hanamachi culture from the okami (female proprietor), followed by a session with a master of narimono (traditional Japanese percussion instruments), who explains the types of instruments and how they are played. Participants then have the chance to observe training sessions of young apprentice geisha, known as hangyoku (trainee geisha).
Witness the profound artistry of Japan’s traditional performing arts and the dedication required to refine these skills. The tour concludes with a hands-on drumming experience, giving participants a direct connection to the artistry.

The experience continues as the group moves to a ryotei, where guests can enjoy the elegant songs and dances of the captivating geisha in the "Ryotei Experience"(with an interpreter guide) accompanied by an interpreter guide.

A rickshaw ride through Mukojima is the perfect way to take in the area’s unique blend of old-world charm and modern sophistication, including the seasonal beauty of the Sumida River and views of Tokyo Skytree®︎.
Departing from the renowned rickshaw company Jidaiya, the journey includes stops at iconic locations such as Sukeroku Yume-dori (Skytree Observation Plaza) and Kototoi Bridge, offering picture-perfect views of Tokyo Skytree.
The rickshaw ride lasts about 30 minutes, concluding at a ryotei in Mukojima.
Along the way, your rickshaw driver will share fascinating insights into the history of Asakusa, hidden gems, and local recommendations, adding depth to your journey.

After being transported by rickshaw to the entrance of the ryotei, you will enjoy the "Ryotei Experience" (with an interpreter guide), where you can indulge in the captivating songs and dances performed by elegantly dressed geisha.

Take a leisurely stroll through Mukojima’s atmospheric streets, accompanied by a kimono-clad geisha. This tour allows you to immerse yourself in an extraordinary experience far removed from everyday life.
The sight of geisha, as if transported directly from the Edo period, walking against the backdrop of Mukojima’s historic streets, is truly unforgettable.
In spring, the cherry blossoms lining the Sumida River add an extra layer of charm to the scenery.
Relish a rare and tranquil moment, soaking in the otherworldly beauty of Mukojima.

Whether you choose to savor colorful kaiseki cuisine and ozashiki asobi at a ryotei, explore Mukojima’s sights via rickshaw, or stroll the historic streets with a geisha, every tour promises a day steeped in the charm of Edo-era Mukojima.
Make the most of your visit to Japan by experiencing the picturesque scenery and rich cultural heritage of Mukojima, a place where time seems to stand still.